The Capital of Tidewater Virginia
Why You’ll Want to Go
With the world’s largest naval base, a temperate climate, and a flourishing downtown area that’s been around since before the Revolutionary War, Norfolk is the quintessential boater’s paradise.
Norfolk is uniquely situated at the confluence of the Elizabeth River, James River, and the Chesapeake Bay. The peninsula holds Norfolk to the east and Portsmouth to the west, just across the Elizabeth, and together the two towns constituted two of the most important players in American naval history. The first drydock was built here in 1831, and is still in use. The first cruiser, the first aircraft carrier, and the first battleship were all built in Portsmouth shipyards. There is an air of naval pride and maritime curiosity in the Tidewater that doesn’t exist just anywhere.
Outside of naval interest, Norfolk has a thriving downtown district, over seven miles of beautiful beaches, and an arts scene celebrating both traditional and modern art. Norfolk is a great place to enjoy being on your boat in a fantastic urban environment.
What You Can Expect to Find
It is hard to find anyone in Norfolk who isn’t a boater. True, many locals are either Navy or naval-adjacent, but you also have the start of the ICW in Norfolk, bringing an influx of boaters traveling north or south for the season. The area’s mild climate extends the shoulder seasons significantly, with the cooler seasons bringing some of the best fishing in the Chesapeake.
Naval Station Norfolk is intimidating, we won’t sugarcoat that. Commercial traffic of container ships, aircraft carriers, tugboats, and pleasure boats necessitate a hypervigilance of your skipper, and using autopilot is not recommended. But once you push past Hospital Point on the Elizabeth River, you’ll find good anchorages and plenty of marinas offering transient slips.
The Elizabeth River splits into Main and Western branches, and this fork is the primary area of interest to boaters. With downtown Norfolk to the east and Olde Towne Portsmouth to the west, you have endless options for exploring by land. Nauticus is the home of the battleship USS Wisconsin, one of the country’s top naval history museums. It is less a museum than it is an experience. Across the street, the Waterside District is a multimillion dollar waterfront development that brings in great restaurants, concerts, events, festivals, and much more. In Town Point Park, a 5,000-seat amphitheater brings in national acts and some of the best festivals on the East Coast.
Getting There
The beauty of boating in the Norfolk region is the accessibility it has to the Chesapeake and Atlantic. But it can also feel large and intimidating. It’s not uncommon to miss Sewells Point entirely due to the amount of ship traffic you’re dodging and spectating, so if you’re new to the area, taking some time to review charts and leaving autopilot on standby is a good idea.
From the east, boaters will pass Willoughby Bay on the southern shore before Sewells Point. This is an area of significant commercial traffic: container ships, tugs, and even Naval aircraft carriers will be in port, making this an inopportune time to pause. Watch for tugs who may be towing barges, and if this is your first time in the area, it’s advisable to enter during the day, and keep your distance from any naval vessels, avoiding intercept courses.
To navigate toward Norfolk, look for the Elizabeth River channel, which is clearly marked, and be ready to stay to the west of the channel, where water depths average 15 feet, and you’ll feel much safer.
Passing Tanner Point, you’ll find the entrance to the Lafayette River to the east, your first chance to duck in and get some respite from the big guys. The Lafayette’s channel is relatively narrow but well-marked. The Route 337 bridge is fixed, and the vertical clearance is 26 feet, so proceed with caution. The Norfolk Yacht and Country Club is positioned on the near side of the bridge.
Exploring closer to Norfolk, the Elizabeth splits into its two branches: the Western and the Main. If you attempt the Western Branch, be aware that the two bridges are both fixed: the first offers 45 feet of vertical clearance, but the second offers just 28 feet. The only anchorage in this part of the river rests between the two bridges, where the bottom provides good holding and you’ll be protected unless a storm is approaching from the east.
The Main Branch of the Elizabeth extends two miles past the Western Branch split, before forking again. But this span between the Western Branch junction and fork in the south is the main area of interest for boaters, as both downtown Norfolk and Portsmouth are set in this spot. Let’s take a closer look.
Where to Stay
On the Lafayette River, the Norfolk Yacht and Country Club offers reciprocity for members of other recognized yacht clubs. If the weather makes staying on the boat unattractive, the Club has several beautiful guest rooms that all have river views. The Club is also fully stocked and can provision your boat with all its needs.
If you’re looking for a spot that’s in the center of the action, Waterside Marina is your home. With overnight docking at just $2/foot, the marina is clean, new, and mere steps away from festivals, restaurants, museums, and the USS Wisconsin. You won’t need an Uber to check out any of the area’s best restaurants.
In Portsmouth, Tidewater Marina is just steps from the charm of Olde Towne. The marina is recently updated and holds more than 300 slips for temporary and long-term docking.
If you need to spend the night off the boat, there are two great options that offer opulent luxury at pretty reasonable prices. The Main in Selden Market is a beautiful hotel with three of the best restaurants in the area. Operated by Hilton, it’s a great hotel where you can enjoy views of the Elizabeth if you don’t want to sleep directly on it. And just next door, the Glass Light Hotel and Gallery offers funky luxury. With modern amenities set in a space that’s part boutique hotel, part gallery, this is a hotel you won’t forget easily.
What to Do
There are some truly excellent museums in Norfolk. We suggest you start with Sail Nauticus, which offers exhibits on Norfolk’s history as well as modern naval warfare (the Wisconsin saw action in World War II, the Korean War, and the Persian Gulf War). The Chrysler Museum is entirely free, and its exhibits are well-known for being unique and engaging for all ages. If you love history but aren’t a fan of indoor museums, pick up a Waterways to Freedom map at the VisitNorfolk center and check out a self-guided walking tour through Norfolk’s Underground Railroad. In Portsmouth, the Naval Shipyard Museum at the Portsmouth Navy Yard explores the history of the Navy in Hampton Roads through interactive exhibits appealing to all ages.
Bring your camera, architecture buffs. Much of Norfolk was rebuilt after World War II, but pocket neighborhoods in both Norfolk and Portsmouth offer great glimpses into the past. Both the Freemason Street Historic District (in Norfolk) and Olde Towne (in Portsmouth) offer excellent examples of American architectural styles (Federal, Greek Revival, and Late Victorian), and self-guided walking tours through peaceful neighborhoods take roughly 30-60 minutes.
While you’re getting your steps in, be sure to check out St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. During the Revolutionary War, the British shelled the town and Americans were forced to raze it afterward to deny occupiers any safe haven. Only one church remained standing, and stands still to this day. The Americans left St. Paul’s Episcopal Church alone when they burned the town to the ground, leaving the British cannonball embedded in its wall as a reminder.
The Elizabeth River Trail extends along over 10 miles of Norfolk’s waterfront, from just north of the Norfolk Yacht Club on the northern edge of the Lafayette River to Norfolk State University on the Main Branch of the Elizabeth. Walking or biking the trail takes you through the various segments of Norfolk’s working waterfront, creating an artery connecting the best neighborhoods to explore.
Norfolk’s biggest event of the summer is the annual Norfolk Harborfest, which is the country’s longest-running maritime festival. Each June, downtown Norfolk’s waterfront explodes with tall ships, live music, fireworks, and much more. If you’re in town for the festival, it’s advised to stay on either the Western Branch or the Lafayette and Uber into town.
Where to Eat
Part of the beauty of Norfolk’s food scene is the wide selection of seafood options. From Chesapeake blue crabs to diver scallops off the day boat, you can’t go wrong ordering the catch of the day.
We love the approach toward “elevated regional cuisine” at Saltine, just north of the Waterside District in The Main. Their calamari with banana pepper relish and remoulade is a local favorite, but the real coup is hitting up their happy hour for a $5 Moscow Mule and half a dozen peel-and-eat shrimp for just $6.
A.W. Shucks Raw Bar and Grill is a Norfolk institution, and it’s worth the Uber. Their biggest attraction is their oysters, and for good reason. A.W. Shucks works directly with local seafood farmers, so that the majority of oysters are harvested within a four-hour radius of the restaurant. Crabcakes literally fly out of the kitchen, topped in a tangy caper-based remoulade that has more spice than your traditional tartar. And if you’re still thinking about what you want to order, our best recommendation is the jambalaya, which is a Creole base with tomatoes, bell peppers, and onions sauteed down with andouille sausage, shrimp, and catfish before being laid lovingly over a rice pilaf. Chef’s kiss.
Shopping
Selden Market is a very cool concept that offers a unique shopping experience. Located in the historic Selden Arcade, the shops are a collection of independent businesses and pop-ups all under one roof. There’s jewelry and apparel, food staples and gifts. After 5pm, come and check out their after-hours events, such as adult game nights, happy hours, live music, and artist pop-ups. If you’re looking for something you’d never find at your local mall, this is your new favorite place.
Prince Books on Main Street is a bookstore for serious readers. Open since 1982, the independent bookstore brings an intelligent selection of fiction, poetry, history, biography, and boating to downtown Norfolk. The proximity to Old Dominion University helps makes Prince Books a great place for author events and readings, too. Do yourself a favor and look past the bestseller lists and get some staff recommendations: their breadth of knowledge of new and backlist titles will keep you busy during the off season.
You’ll need a car to get to Salty Dog Discount Marine, but take our word and make sure you have room in the trunk before you go. Located in the Little Creek area, Salty Dog is an institution in Tidewater, and for good reason. Whether you need a retro fit part or an obscure older piece, prices are reasonable and if they don’t have what you’re looking for, there’s a good chance they’ll have it within 24 hours for you. Part consignment store, part new stock, one of the best parts of shopping in this Boater’s Mecca is the knowledge of the owner and floor staff. Whatever you do, don’t assume you’ll be able to pop in and pop out: sometimes the destination is the journey in and of itself.
