Cape Charles

Here’s proof that you can’t keep a good town down.
Welcome to the new Cape Charles!

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Cape Charles and its one thousand inhabitants sit at one of the most exciting locations on the Chesapeake Bay—we’d go farther, but right now the Chesapeake is all we care about exploring, so we’ll leave it at that. If you were paying attention in history class, you might think its location was even more alluring in the 1880s, when the railroad finally came south from its terminus in Pocomoke, Md., and ended instead at Cape Charles Harbor, where people and goods were loaded aboard ferries and barges for the 36-mile trip to Norfolk, where the railroad picks up again. Or vice versa, of course. 

We bring up the railroad because if it weren’t for that, there would very likely not be any town of Cape Charles. We’ll get back to that in a minute.

The completion of the Bay Bridge-Tunnel in 1964 threw a spanner in the engine of economic prosperity, so it has taken this little town at the end of the road a long time and a few false starts to come back. But here’s the important part: It’s back in a big way.

 It’s still a charming village full of historic homes with a tossed salad of architectural styles. And yes, life in town still centers on the old main street (Mason Ave.) and surrounding area with its one-of-a-kind hardware store, two boutique hotels, excellent bed and breakfasts, pubs, brewery, cider house, fresh seafood restaurant, and perfect pirate pizza.

Cape Charles also has developed a second life outside of the original planned community but still within the town limits. An oyster house, two world-class golf courses, nature trails and more. 

And we haven’t even gotten to its most dazzling feature: a long, beautiful sparkling white sand beach! Yes, we’re pretty excited about Cape Charles.

When you explore the section of town lying from the main street north, you’ll notice that the east-west streets are named for well-known Virginians, while the north-south streets are named for fruits. Sadly, the blocks nearest the beach were built later on filled land and have non-fruity-or-famous-Virginian names like Harbor and Bay Avenue. In any case, most of the businesses we’ll be talking about are located along Mason Avenue. 

Directly south of Mason lies a no-man’s land created by the old railroad tracks that end in a muddle of disuse at the harbor. Beyond that lies the very tidy city marina with its delicious Shanty restaurant, a good public boat ramp, workboat docks, and the Cape Charles Yachting Center.

To finish up our quick tour, the Cape Charles Natural Area and the two Bay Creek golf courses lie to the south of the harbor, while the Oyster Farm Marina, Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery, and other allurements lie north of the old part of town along Kings Creek. Now that we have the lay of the land, let’s look at just some of the things there are to see and do in Cape Charles.

If you are arriving by boat

Cape Charles is a fairly short hop across the mouth of the Chesapeake from Norfolk, Portsmouth and Hampton, about 25 nm or so, depending on your starting point. It’s easy to spot as you come across because of the several dozen cargo ships likely to be waiting in the Cape Charles anchorage a couple of miles off its entrance.

You can access the Cherrystone Channel into the harbor from the shallower end (least depth 13 feet) at red “2C” or 3 nm farther north at green “1CC”. From either point, the channel is wide, deep, and well-marked all the way to the harbor entrance between the jetty and the cement plant. Cape Charles Town Harbor’s docks are straight ahead, with the boat ramps, fuel docks, workboat docks and then Cape Charles Yacht Center at the far end.

Coming down the Bay, you’ll want to enter Cape Charles channel at green “1CC”.

If you are headed for the Oyster Farm Marina, continue 1 nm past the harbor entrance and look for Kings Creek’s private markers. You will find that the channel is prone to shift, so you’ll want to call the dockmaster for advice before you arrive. If you are still uncertain, the marina may offer to send out a boat to guide you in. You are not allowed to anchor inside Cape Charles Harbor.

If you are trailering your boat in

Arriving from the south, you will naturally come to the Eastern Shore by way of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. Then follow U.S. 13 north to S.R. 184 (Randolph Avenue). A left turn here will take you into town. Arriving from the north, you’ll be on U.S. 13 and, of course, make a right turn onto Randolph. You’ll find the boat ramps at the harbor between the town docks and the fuel dock. You can access this from Marina Road.

If you are launching a paddle-craft

You have several options for launching your kayak. You could use the boat ramps, the town beach, or go up to the Oyster Farm docks off Kings Creek. Kings Creek is quite protected, but the open Bay can be rough, so keep an eye on the weather, winds, and current. There are some wonderful paddling spots in this area of
the world, including Kiptopeake and the Eastern Shore of Virginia National
Wildlife Area. 

Marinas

We’ve touched on these already, but the good news is, they are all great marinas. If you have a deeper draft vessel, we recommend either Cape Charles Town Harbor or Cape Charles Yacht Center. The Yacht Center was specifically constructed to berth and service super-yacht-sized vessels. If you need service, especially anything that requires hauling your boat, the Yacht Center is your best and only option.

On the other hand, if you are traveling with your kids, we recommend you put in at Oyster Farm Marina where you’ll find a big pool and lots of games.
It also has its own beach. You can rent boats here and arrange for a charter excursion. The Oyster Farm Eatery is fun, and there’s even a dock bar with food. Here you can also arrange for a golf cart to drive everyone into downtown or rent bicycles.

Boutique hotels

Here is a delightful option, no matter whether you arrived by car or boat. Cape Charles now has two entirely remodeled, updated, and utterly charming small hotels—the Northampton on Mason Avenue and the Hotel Cape Charles.

The Hotel Cape Charles is located at Strawberry and Mason in the middle of downtown, but with balcony views of the harbor and a very short walk to the beach. The Cape Charles has been a hotel for more than a century, but it is updated in every way. 

The Northampton Hotel has announced that it will remain closed until 2021, due to the pandemic, but file it away for future visits. It opened in 2018 after a two-year restoration, and it’s beautifully updated, with a view of the Chesapeake Bay from every room.

Bed & breakfasts

In a town this full of fine old Victorian homes, it’s no surprise that owners find the idea of turning them into bed & breakfasts irresistible. There is the handsome Bay Haven Inn of Cape Charles, the international décor of 110-year-old Alyssa House, and finally the antique furnishings and contemporary design of the Fig Street Inn.

Cottage rentals

Cape Charles is even richer in cottage rentals than B&Bs. For a good list, take a look at the rental listings in the excellent Cape Charles by the Bay’s excellent website—capecharlesbythebay.com.

In addition, you will find colorful and adorable little villas for rent from the Oyster Farm at Kings Creek.

Marinas

We’ve touched on these already, but the good news is, they are all great marinas. If you have a deeper draft vessel, we recommend either Cape Charles Town Harbor or Cape Charles Yacht Center. The Yacht Center was specifically constructed to berth and service super-yacht-sized vessels. If you need service, especially anything that requires hauling your boat, the Yacht Center is your best and only option.

On the other hand, if you are traveling with your kids, we recommend you put in at Oyster Farm Marina where you’ll find a big pool and lots of games.
It also has its own beach. You can rent boats here and arrange for a charter excursion. The Oyster Farm Eatery is fun, and there’s even a dock bar with food. Here you can also arrange for a golf cart to drive everyone into downtown or rent bicycles.

Boutique hotels

Here is a delightful option, no matter whether you arrived by car or boat. Cape Charles now has two entirely remodeled, updated, and utterly charming small hotels—the Northampton on Mason Avenue and the Hotel Cape Charles.

The Hotel Cape Charles is located at Strawberry and Mason in the middle of downtown, but with balcony views of the harbor and a very short walk to the beach. The Cape Charles has been a hotel for more than a century, but it is updated in every way. 

The Northampton Hotel has announced that it will remain closed until 2021, due to the pandemic, but file it away for future visits. It opened in 2018 after a two-year restoration, and it’s beautifully updated, with a view of the Chesapeake Bay from every room.

Bed & breakfasts

In a town this full of fine old Victorian homes, it’s no surprise that owners find the idea of turning them into bed & breakfasts irresistible. There is the handsome Bay Haven Inn of Cape Charles, the international décor of 110-year-old Alyssa House, and finally the antique furnishings and contemporary design of the Fig Street Inn.

Cottage rentals

Cape Charles is even richer in cottage rentals than B&Bs. For a good list, take a look at the rental listings in the excellent Cape Charles by the Bay’s excellent website—capecharlesbythebay.com.

In addition, you will find colorful and adorable little villas for rent from the Oyster Farm at Kings Creek.

Go to the beach

Not many Chesapeake destinations can boast a half-mile-long white-sand beach with dunes and a fishing pier, but there’s one right in town, an easy walk from the harbor marinas, downtown, the bed-and-breakfasts, and boutique hotels.

You are welcome to fish from the town’s Fun Pier—no license needed—or simply watch the sun set over the Chesapeake Bay. 

Browse the downtown shops

Cape Charles may be a small town, but it’s home to a wide variety of shops. That means that everyone from big to little and angler to chef will enjoy ambling through Mason Avenue’s wares. 

You can get hardware at Watson’s Hardware, but you can also get marine supplies, deck chairs, appliances, games, bicycles, clothes, beach balls, baskets, boots, stuffed animals, toy trucks, and Red Wing shoes. Okay, we’ll stop. But, really, there’s more.

Stop by Rayfield’s pharmacy for drugstore items and their old-fashioned soda fountain. Then stroll up or down Mason Avenue and the mostly-fruity side streets to sample the goods at Gull Hummock Gourmet Market, Cape Charles Candy Company, Like a Sailor (eccentric) gift shop, Lemontree Gallery, Ellen Moore Gallery, and Drizzles tasting store. Want more? Check out Moonrise Jewelry, Love Letters, Bailey’s Bait & Tackle, and the Boardwalk.

Stroll through the historic district

Cape Charles has a remarkable collection of architecturally interesting homes, especially Victorians and Greek Revivals. The town’s original grid of Virginia statesmen versus types of fruits is still very much intact, so we recommend that you amble north up Peach, west (left) on Tazewell, then north (right) on Strawberry for a visit to Cape Charles’s lovely Central Park. Then, if you are still game, head east (left) on Monroe to Nectarine, then north to Jefferson. Take Jefferson west (left) to the beach. Finally trek back to town (left) on Bay Avenue, admiring the beachfront Victorians along the way. Once you are back at Mason, well done! Head straight to either Brown Dog for that double-dip ice cream cone or congratulate yourself at nearby Kelly’s Gingernut Pub with a cold and frosty brew.

After that bit of refreshment, stop by the Cape Charles Museum to learn about the town’s fascinating history, then put on your reading glasses and amble over to the Cape Charles Library. It’s a beauty and the oldest on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

Get out on the water

Ready for some fishing or paddle-sports? If you didn’t bring your own boat—or you just want to get out on a different kind of boat—it’s easily done. Cape Charles, not surprisingly, has charter boats aplenty. You can get a good line on them by talking with Cape Charles Harbormaster Charlie Farlow—757-331-2357.

To rent a kayak, paddleboard or bicycle, get in touch with Southeast Expeditions, which also organizes some first-rate guided tours in several locations in the area. You can also arrange to rent paddle-craft at Oyster Farm Marina.

Finally, you can just sit back and enjoy the ride if you book a tour with local residents, Capt. David and Anna Lee of Cape Charles Boat Tour Company. 

We’ll talk about some of the great places nearby to take your own boat in the side-trip section.

Get out on the golf course and the nature trail

It’s hard to run out of things to do around Cape Charles. Here are two more.

Pull out your golf clubs and arrange for a ride to Bay Creek Resort’s two top-rated golf courses, one designed by Arnold Palmer and the other Jack Nicklaus. Both 18-hole courses are beautifully sandwiched between the Chesapeake Bay, the sand dunes and Old Plantation Creek. They are located south of the harbor, as is Bay Creek Resort’s fitness center, which includes pools, work-out rooms, and a splash zone and giant slide for kids. Okay, maybe adults too.

Cape Charles Natural Area Preserve is also located south of the harbor. This is a terrific place to visit during the fall bird migrations. A long boardwalk will take you through the preserve’s various habitats, including beach (though no beach access), dunes, and marine loblolly pine woodland. The woodland area is especially alive with migrating songbirds. To get to the preserve from Cape Charles Harbor, follow Marina Road around the basin to Bayshore Drive, then south to Patrick Henry Avenue. The trail begins behind the kiosk.

You’ve boated, fished, paddled, golfed, bird-watched, shopped and played in the surf. Isn’t it about time you got yourself something to eat?  Naturally, like everything else in Cape Charles, there are too many choices for us to share here. So, we’ve picked out three of our favorites. For a more complete list, dial up that capecharlesbythebay.com website we mentioned earlier and take a look under “Dining.” So, everybody hungry? Let’s go!

Breakfast

This is the easy one. We have a first cup of coffee on the boat and then walk over to Cape Charles Coffee House on Mason Avenue. It’s the place with a green awning that looks like a bank—Because it was. (So was Kelly’s Gingernut Pub, which we mentioned earlier. Another great place, but not open for breakfast.) Because it was a bank and then a clothing store, Cape Charles Coffee House looks terrific. Its coffee is terrific too, and we usually go for café au lait and then order whatever our eyes first light on for breakfast, though the waffles and fruit are a favorite. Cape Charles Coffee opens at 8:00 a.m. and stays open for lunch. They have sandwiches too.

Lunch

Here we start running into trouble, there are so many to choose from. But we are going to be resolute and go for The Shanty, which is located on the docks at Cape Charles Harbor. The fish is fresh and as local as can be. The menu even lists the watermen they buy from. We can’t resist the soft-shell BLT. Or the oyster po’boy. But then again, who can pass up a crabcake sandwich with pork belly, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickled ginger and siracha aioli? Even the paprika-fried Brussels sprouts are great. The Shanty also manages to concoct surprising original cocktails and serves up a good selection of local beers. There’s wine too, of course. And good iced tea.

Dinner

We feel duty bound to pick out a favorite seafood restaurant for dinner too, so save room for the Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery. Like The Shanty (and a number of other Cape Charles restaurants), it features local seafood and local produce, but it also has fish from elsewhere, and great steaks. When we splurge, we share a “Seafood Tower” of oysters, clams and shrimp, lobster poke, and tuna salad. Of course, the fried oysters and clam-strips with hushpuppies shouldn’t be overlooked either. Nor should the fresh flounder.

Pizza

Since we feel that pizza constitutes the fourth meal of the day, we will mention Deadrise Pies, which really is a pizza place, even though it sounds like a yeast that went wrong. It’s named for the classic watermen’s boats, of course. Our particularly favorite pie is the Arvor, which has prosciutto, pineapple, sun-dried tomato, basil, and onion. They are located on Mason Avenue, of course, and, like much of Cape Charles, closed on Mondays.

Cider, bourbon and beer

Here are two more Cape Charles originals and one Cape Charles branch.

Cape Charles Distillery features small-batch bourbon, whiskeys, vodka, and moonshines. Stop by for craft cocktails too. Located on Strawberry Street, just off Mason.

Cape Charles Brewing Company, like the distillery, opened in 2018. The brewery also serves pub-style lunch and dinner. Their production includes Assateague Island and Cobb Island IPAs, several varieties of ale, Smith Island Oyster  Stout, a couple of wheat beers, and Ole Reliable lager. 

Buskey Cider on the Bay, a cider tasting house for the Richmond-based company. Here you can sample ciders galore, including but by no means limited to tart cherry, maple spiced and habanero mango. ⚓︎

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